CURTAINS – Curtains are often the most expensive items of soft furnishing. They should enhance floor and wall covering, and compliment rest of the furniture and furnishings. Besides contributing to the décor, they have a number of other uses.

  1. They insulate a room against noise and cold.
  2. They are often used to cut out light during the day, especially in hotels (airport hotels) where people are sleeping in the daytime. Too much sunlight can damage some furnishings, and many people find sunlight uncomfortable – so curtains can be used to shade a room.
  3. Net curtains can stop a room from being overlooked, especially in a built up area.

A man-made fabric probably does not exist that is not resistant in one way or the other to something – soil, abrasion, fire, water, sunlight, wrinkling, creasing, odour, etc. Yet all fabrics contain different properties in terms of their durability and colour (fastness and wash ability)

            Cost is a decisive factor, but if really inexpensive fabric is chosen, the old maxim holds true – “Spending less in beginning often costs more in the end”. Cheap materials simply will not retain shape, colour or weave for a long time, nor can they be expected to withstand numerous launderings.

            Price should not be the sole criteria where fabric collection is concerned. Yarn quality and thickness (density), colour fastness and construction are other salient considerations. Densely woven materials with generous quantities of yarn usually have the superior stamina that is so vital in non-residential situations.

            Another important factor in choosing a fabric is the type and amount of daily abuse it will take including excessive exposure to sunlight, humidity, soil, frequent handling or mishandling by guest and employees. How much vacuuming the drapery will need, may influence the choice of colour and texture. Employees should be instructed to open and close draperies in guest room as this movement will help in dusting them.

            If draperies are going to be subjected to heavy usage and abrasion on daily basis, tweed tapestries are rugged enough to take the beating. Pile weaves such as velvet are not only luxurious, but also strong, especially those constructed of chemical fibers. Damask is another durable fabric, plus it gives an elegant and prestigious appearance.

            Loosely woven materials stretch, loose their shape and eventually snag or sag, and are least practical in hotels. Good quality vinyl-coated fabrics on the other hand are gaining in popularity due to their soil-spot and stain resistant qualities; and need only minimal soap and water care.

            Modern miracles in chemistry make it possible to finish a fabric with properties that make it resistant to almost anything, although no fabric can be made resistant to everything. These coated fabrics are impregnated with invisible chemical finishes that affect neither the fabrics’ colour nor texture.

            Stain repelers are undoubtedly the most popular ones. Fabrics treated with fluoro-chemicals resist oil, water and soil stains. When something spills, the liquid does not seep into the fabric. It remains on the surface and can be blotted away (never rubbed) with a dry cloth or towel. As for soil and dust, they collect on top of the fabric and can be easily brushed off. Most stain resistant fabric lasts through five launderings or dry-cleanings, before having to be retreated.

            Silicones are responsible for fabrics’ heat resistance. Among their outstanding virtues is the ability to withstand temperatures up to 500ºF. Draperies in public areas must be treated to be flame resistant.

            Most curtains need to be lined, with the exception of those materials that have interwoven lining, backing or insulation material. The life of the curtain is prolonged by having linings since they are protected from the damaging effects of sun-rays. Lining material is usually of mercerized cotton, which withstands sun-rays better. Linings provide better heat insulation also. Air trapped between the curtain and the lining provides a bad conductor of heat from the room and the extra weight given to the curtains is protection against draughts. The curtains usually hang better when lined and lined curtains exclude more exterior light. From the exterior of a building, lined curtains give uniformity of appearance. However linings do increase the initial cost of outlay on material, and lined curtains are more expensive to make-up. Unless linings are detachable, there may be uneven shrinkage between the lining and the curtain fabric.

CURTAIN TERMS

Face Fabric – The main fabric that faces the interior of the room. The “good” side of the fabric.

Return – Part of the drapery that goes around the side of a cornice, valance, drape to sit flush and at right angles with the wall.

Head / Heading – The top of the curtain. It often gets called heading because of the heading tape that is used to make curtain decorative designs, i.e. French pleat, pencil pleat, etc, at the head of the curtain.

Stack back – This is the area required and used by pleated curtains when they are open on either side of the window. You need to allow for this when you measure for your curtain track.

Padded Edge – This is a roll of padding along the leading edge of a curtain.

Leading Edge – This is the inner vertical edges of the curtain that meets its pair at the centre of the window, the edge that is not fixed when you draw back curtains. It can be used to decorate the curtain with braid, contrasting fabric or tasseled braid etc.

Hem – The base of the curtain which has the fabric turned back up the curtain to make a neat finish to the bottom edge. It also adds natural weight which helps the curtain hang neatly. Weights can also be added into the hem to help achieve this.

TYPES OF CURTAINS

Sheer curtains – They cover the glass of the window assuring privacy, but are thin enough to admit light and air. They may be used alone or in combinations with draperies of heavier opaque material. They may hang straight or be tied back. If hung inside the window casing, they should reach till the window sill. If hung on the outside casing, they should hang till the bottom of the apron. They can even hang till the floor in very formal rooms and are sometimes referred to as glass curtains.

Heavy curtains or draperies – Draperies are also called over-curtains or drapes. Draperies are generally of heavier material, tailored to fit the particular window. They are usually lined and weighted at the bottom.

Types of draperies

Draw draperies – These are hung on a sliding track, so that they maybe drawn together at night. These should be made with a fullness ratio of 2:1. For installation special hardware is required.

There could be three systems by which curtains can be drawn: –

  1. A cord attached to the rollers in such a way, that if a cord is pulled, both curtains are drawn.
  2. A pole is attached to the top of each curtain, and is used to draw the curtains.
  3. Electronically, in which curtains are drawn and opened, by pressing a button remote from the window.

There should be enough space between the draw-curtains and drapes, so that the latter is not disarranged when the curtains are drawn.

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Tiered Curtains – These consist of two or more curtains hung over the head of the window and the other tiers will be hung from transoms.

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Shirred Curtains – These are usually installed within a window frame; the fabric has a casement heading top and bottom and is threaded through rods at the top and bottom creating a shirred effect over the window.

Ellison Vienna II 2-pk. Tieback Window Curtains

Tie Back Curtains – These are curtains that are designed to be gathered at the side of the window and held by a decorative tieback, sleeve or cord.

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Café CurtainsThese originated from Vienna in the 19th Century, to allow patrons to view people passing by as they dined, whilst keeping a degree of privacy. Cafe Curtains cover only half the window are stationary and are usually on rods (or poles) with rings, they can also be tie top, tab top or grommet top for a more contemporary look. They are often teamed up with a valance at the top of the window, purely for decoration to create a tiered effect. They are used to create privacy in a kitchen or bathroom, and as per their original purpose are used frequently in cafes and restaurants. They are used to create privacy in a kitchen or bathroom. They can have gathered headings, and are frequently made from scalloped headings.

TYPES OF CURTAIN HEADINGS

A heading is the gathering or pleating at the top of the curtain. This is achieved by sewing a heading tape to the top of the fabric. The tape has cords that are threaded along the tape and when pulled, they draw up the fabric to its specific style. It has pockets, which receive the hooks to attach it to the track. Depending on the type of tape there are options for positioning the curtain top above below or equal to the track via the placement of hooks into the pockets.

The design of the heading tape will determine the style of the pleating/gathering and dictates the fullness of the curtain.

Gathering tapes requires 1 ½ -2 times the track width, pencil or box pleats require 2 ½ times the track width to create the correct effect.

Standard Tape – This is a narrow heading tape about 2.5cm in width that forms simple gathers.

It has one row of hook suspension pockets. It is used where there is a valance or pelmet and the curtain heading will not be visible and for small informal curtains and sheers.

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Rod Pocket (Casement Curtains, Panel Curtains, Pole Top Curtains) – This style of curtain has many names. The top forms a pocket that the fabric is then threaded onto a pole or rod. This is usually fixed outside the window frame. The fabric is sometimes difficult to pull across, so is often left in place and draped back to the sides of the windows and held in place with tie backs or hold backs.

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Bishops Sleeve or Gathered curtains – A bishop’s sleeve is basically rod pocket curtains with extra length allowed for blousing, this allows the sides to be gathered with tiebacks back to the window frame to create multiple poufs and they often puddle on the ground. An elegant window treatment, with soft bellowing top, tight middle and flowing puddling bottom. Multiple poufs can be made but they have to be kept in proportion to the window size.

pinch pleat curtains that fit just right and look great

Deep Triple Pleats – These use 4 pronged hooks and deep pleating tape. Fabric requirements are 2 ¼ – 2 ½ times the width of the window opening.

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Pencil Pleat Tape – These are the most common form of pleats and heading tape used. The tape forms crisp even upright parallel pleats (like a row of pencils). It requires 2 ¼ – 2 ½ times curtain fullness. It has two rows of suspension pockets and can be used with track or pole fixtures.

Smocked Sheer Curtain - Gray | Pottery Barn

Smocked – This tape has two rows of pencil pleating which creates a smocked effect.

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Double Pleats – Two pleats of fabric tacked at the base of the pleat at regular intervals across the curtain. 

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French Pleat, Triple Pleat, Pinch Pleat Curtain – Regular spaced triple pleats generally formed by a tape that pulls through the cords to create the pleats. The pleats are pinched close together at the bottom so that they fan out towards the top. They require a specific pleater curtain hook to hold the pleats in place and attach the curtain to the track. They are often sewn at the base of the pleat on the face of the fabric to hold the pleat in place. Fabric requirements are 2 ¼ – 2 ½ times the width of the window opening. These curtains create a formal appearance and are best used with heavier fabrics, velvets and damasks.

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Goblet Pleats – These are simply pinch pleats which have their top edge plumped out and padded with wadding to form a goblet shape.

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Knife Pleat – These are sharply pressed slim, closely spaced pleats which are all facing the same way.

 

Box Pleat – A flat symmetrical pleat which is created by the fabric folding to the back of each side of the pleat.

Smocked – This tape has two rows of pencil pleating which imitates smocking as the pleats are linked alternately to form a honeycomb effect.

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Inverted Pleat – A pleat which is formed like a box pleat but in reverse, therefore the edges of the pleat meet in the centre on the face side of the fabric.

Cased Heading – A heading where a pocket is created at the top of the fabric which is open at both ends so that a pole or rod may be threaded through.

Poufed Heading – This is a fat ruffle that stands up above the rod and is formed when you tease the top of a gathered heading or rod pocket/casement heading.

Scalloped Heading – Generally used with a rod or pole it is a heading with deep half round cutouts at the top. Used often with cafe curtains.

Specialty Tapes – Austrian Blind Tape, Festoon Tape, Detachable-lining tape.

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 Tab Top Curtains – Curtains with fabric loops (tabs) at the top edge/head. They are threaded through poles or rods. They can be constructed with less fullness than tape headed curtains saving on the amount of fabric required. They are best not used where they will be drawn frequently as they don’t move easily over the poles and will wear quickly. They are suitable for use as cafe curtains.

Amazon.com: Homey natural linen tie top curtains/made of linen ...

Tie Top Curtains – These are small strips of fabric attached to the head of the fabric and are used to tie over a curtain rod, holding the curtain in place. An informal look is created and used mostly with sheers and lightweight fabrics. They are suitable for use as cafe curtains.

CURTAIN LINING

Often overlooked but it is an important part of curtains. Curtain lining is often taken for granted. There are many types and they perform many different functions, but to keep it simple. They provide fullness in a curtain, they protect the fabric from the dirt and grime entering from the window side, and they act as an insulator, trapping heat between the lining and the curtain fabric. They protect the main fabric from sunlight, they protect the main fabric from any moisture that may arise on the window i.e. condensation which over time could cause mould. Often linings are on a separate tape and can be removed and washed or replaced. They can block out unwanted light and reduce street noise. They provide a professional finish to window treatments, concealing the hems and raw edges. So to conclude, it is a wise choice to line your curtains.

There are many different ways to manufacture linings.

Tube Lining – This is creating seams with the curtain and lining fabrics.

Locked In Lining – These are sewn to the curtain vertically across the width.

Detachable Linings – These hang by a special heading tape from the same hooks as the curtain but they are not actually stitched to the curtain fabric.

Interlining – Interlining can be placed between two fabrics acting as a layer of insulation whilst bulking out curtains increasing their draping properties. It is a white or off-white soft thick fabric which is often called Domette or Bumph.

Thermal linings can be used for any of the above methods of manufacture. Some fabrics are coated with a thermal coating and generally don’t use a lining.

There are many types materials for linings – polycotton, calico, thermal coated, and blackout. Blackout linings are ideal for bedrooms, as they totally block out the light.

TYPES OF CURTAIN TRACKS

Tracks are generally fixed to the wall above the window, and the curtains have hooks looped into the header tape, which fit onto clips on the track and allows them to be opened and closed.

They can be made of plastic or metal with a powder-coat finish. They can be hidden under pelmets or valances or be the same colour as your wall, so that they blend in.

There are many different variations, some can have curved attachments for following the contour of a bay window for example, others can be hung from the ceiling for heavier fabrics and ceiling height windows, some are extendable so that they can adjust to the window size. 

Some tracks can be cord controlled, which means that you pull the cord and the curtains open & close. This reduces the need for touching the fabric, and in the long run keeps the curtains cleaner as the natural oils from your hands rubs off onto the fabric and build up over time which then tends to attract dirt easier.

Double Tracks – These are useful for when you want to use two sets of curtains, or a pelmet and a curtain.

Ceiling Mounted Track – This track is mounted to the ceiling rather than the wall, it is useful when you have a window that goes right up to the ceiling or a wide sill that protrudes that you want to avoid. You can mount a track far enough out so that the curtain hangs straight and misses the sill. It works well for heavy fabrics, as the ceiling mounted track is stronger than the wall mounted.

Extendable Track – These are by far the most common today. They are purchased in standard sizes with a range that they can be extended to. They are ideal as you can alter them to suit different window widths without having to cut them, and it leaves room for human error, which often occurs when measuring curtains. 

Flexible Track – It is possible to purchase flexible tracks, which are ideal for bay or bow windows if you want to follow their line with the curtains. They are made of PVC and are very strong.

Poles & Finials – A rail or track which a curtain or valance is hung. Poles are available in many different materials – timber, brass, wrought iron, bamboo, and painted timber. They usually have co-coordinating rings that fix to the hooks on the heading of the curtains. Finials are the decorative fixing at the end of the poles. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, some simple, some complex, from the traditional fleur de lys and arrowhead, to the fruity pomegranate and pineapple, and back to nature with acorns, scallop shells, along with the simple colonial turned wood balls. A more contemporary type of pole system is the tensioned steel wire, which doesn’t impose on the windows.

Curtain Wire – Curtain wire is a coiled wire with a plastic coating. It is slightly expandable and is fixed by eyelets screwed into the wire at each end, which are then fixed to the hook. Curtain wire is used for lightweight fabrics, sheers and nets that only have a short span to cover and do not need to be drawn.

CURTAIN DECORATION

Curtain Valance

This is a deep frill of fabric at the top of a window, framing the window and hiding the curtain track or rod and usually has a gathered or pleated heading. It can be in the same fabric or contrasting, it can be embellished using trimmings, braid, ribbon and tassels.

Some types are: Stagecoach, balloon shaped, box pleated, rod pocket, and board mounted, shirred, kick pleated, French pleated, etc.

Pelmets

This is a stiff paneled heading to curtains. It is a solid structure that is mounted above the windows. It can be decorated in numerous ways – from shaping the lower part of the pelmet to adding trimmings and tassels. They are generally seen upholstered but can also be covered in the wall covering or painted, or for a more rustic look made of recycled timber.

ACCESSORIES & TRIMS

Trims – Trims are decorative textile bands which are an easy way to smarten up a simple curtain or drapery. They range from tassels to cords, lace, velvet and ribbons. The most important thing to remember is to keep the scale, weight and proportion in keeping with the dimensions of the curtain. To follow are a few types that are available, most come in natural and synthetic fibers, the luxury end of trims are often made from silk or linen. Often rayon or viscose is added to cotton or wool to provide sheen to them.

Gimp – This has looped or scalloped edges and is a narrow type of braid. It is often used to cover over upholstery tacks on chairs.

Piping – Is a product that can be stitched into the seam of a curtain as is a fabric covered cord in a pipe like fold over cord with a narrow flange.

Galloon – Straight or shaped edges of flat patterned braid.

Frog – Loops of silk covered wire or wrapped cords of oriental decent.

Cord – This comes in almost any fibre imaginable and multiple colours, is usually thick and twisted rope, generally used as a tieback.

Jacquard Border – A flat braid which has been woven on a jacquard loom.

Ribbon – A narrow band of fine ornamental material used for decoration.

Picot Braid – This is a bobble edging, fixed to a woven cotton braid and is available in varying widths.

Lambrequin – A stiff pelmet which often continues down both sides of the window frame. It evolves from 17th Century France and was based on the shape of a harness for horses. They were often used with Portieres.

Jabots – A tapered portion of fabric that is self or contrast lined. The lining is an important feature as it folds back when pleated. It is pleated and used as a frame on each side of a row of swags. The proportions of Jabots should be one half or two thirds the full length of the window.

Swags – These are fabric which forms a decorative element over a window, hanging from two fixed points either side of the top of the window, draping down through the centre. There are numerous variations of this form of decoration.

Tails – These are the fabric that hangs down from the end of the swags.

Scarf Drapery – This is an uncut portion of fabric which is draped to form an ornamental drapery.

Flags – These are double sided Jabots used at the centre of a swag or when dividing up swags in a bay/bow window situation.

Rosettes – A focal point for a curtain arrangement. It can be a finishing touch for curtain headings, tiebacks, swags and tails. There are numerous forms including rose, choux, bow, knife pleated.

FABRICS USED FOR CURTAINS

Brocade – Brocade is traditionally woven using silk, cotton, wool or mixed fibers, on a jacquard loom, in a multi or self colored floral design.

Calico – This is coarse, plain-weave cotton in cream or while with natural flecks.

Chintz – Traditionally a cotton fabric with eastern design, often with a resin finish which gives a characteristic sheen (glaze) which repels dirt. The term is now used to describe any patterned or plain glazed fabric.

Damask – A jacquard first woven in Damascus in silk, wool or cotton with satin floats on a warp satin background. They are mostly self coloured and can be used on the reverse for a matt finish.

Denim – This fabric is inexpensive and available in many weights from light chambray to heavy jeans denim.

Gingham – A plain weave fabric with equal width stripes of white plus one other colour in both warp and weft threads to produce blocks of checks or stripes. It is 100 percent cotton or cotton mix.

Lace – Open work fabric in designs ranging from simple spots to elaborate panels. Lace is generally available in cotton or cotton & polyester mixture.

Moiré – The characteristic watermarked markings are produced as plain woven silk or acetate fabric progresses through hot engraved cylinders crushing threads into different directions to form a pattern.

Muslin – A white or off-white, open weave cloth which can be dyed. Muslin is inexpensive and is used for under curtains to diffuse light.

Organdie – It is a fine cotton fabric with an acid finish to give it crispiness.

Organza – It is similar to organdie but made of silk, polyester or viscose. Organza is very springy and is used for stiff headings or roman blinds.

Silk noile – Light to medium weight silk in a natural colour with small pieces of cocoon weave in as flecks.

Taffeta – originally woven from silk, is now available in acetate and blends. It’s a plain weave fabric with a light catching sheen and is used for elaborate drapes.

Velvet – originally 100 percent silk, is now made from cotton and viscose. It has a nap and a pile and needs special care while stitching as well as when in use. Gives a rich warm feeling.

Voile – Fine plain-weave cotton or polyester fabric dyed in many plain colours. It may also be made from silk and wool and used as fine drapery.

ASSESSING THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL REQUIRED

Plain fabrics require the length from the top of the track to 1.25cm above the windowsill plus turnings, or 15cms below the windowsills plus turnings, or 2.5cms above the floor plus turnings.

            Patterned fabrics require extra material depending on the pattern. Allow an additional pattern repeats for every width of curtain after the first, e.g. if five widths are required, then four pattern repeats are needed. At least 20 cm should be allowed for turnings, headings and hems for shrinkage. The width of the curtain should allow for overlap at the side of the window and at least 15cm at the center. The tracks should take care of this, so the length of the track is usually taken as a guide.

Gathering – A gathered heading is usually hidden under a pelmet. The tape should be placed about 1.5cm from the top of the curtain. The curtain width required is 1½ times the length of the track.